Liguria produces little wine, but what it does produce is quite unique: vineyards on terraces overlooking the sea, grape varieties you’ll hardly find anywhere else, and eight DOC designations. The most famous is Sciacchetrà, the passito wine of the Cinque Terre, made from grapes left to dry after the harvest. Then there are the whites—Vermentino and Pigato—and two reds worth discovering: Rossese di Dolceacqua, Liguria’s first DOC designation in 1972, and Ormeasco di Pornassio. Here you’ll find what to drink, where it comes from, what to pair it with, and how to take some home.
- The signature wine: Sciacchetrà, a sweet passito from the Cinque Terre DOC
- White Wines: Vermentino and Pigato in the western region, Vermentino dei Colli di Luni in the eastern region
- Red Wines: Rossese di Dolceacqua, Ormeasco di Pornassio, Granaccia
- Wine Designations: Eight DOCs, from Val Nervia to Lunigiana
- A classic pairing: Vermentino or Pigato with pesto and fish
- To take home: Sciacchetrà or Rossese, purchased directly from the winery or at a wine shop
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Sciacchetrà, the passito wine of the Cinque Terre
Sciacchetrà is produced on the terraces of the Cinque Terre, supported by dry-stone walls and served by small monorails used to transport grapes and equipment up and down. The DOC regulations for “Cinque Terre and Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà” stipulate that at least 80% of the blend must consist of Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino grapes, grown in Riomaggiore, Vernazza, Monterosso, and the Tramonti area of La Spezia.
After the harvest, the grape clusters are left to dry in well-ventilated rooms until the sugar content is highly concentrated; winemaking cannot begin before October 1. The wine cannot be sold before October 1 of the following year, and the Riserva cannot be sold before the third year. The yield is extremely low: a maximum of 32 liters of wine per 100 kg of grapes. The result is a sweet wine, ranging in color from golden yellow to amber, which is often sold in half-bottles and costs more than a regular wine—for good reason.
You can get a good view of the vineyards while walking from Corniglia to Manarola via Volastra, one of the most beautiful trails through the vineyards along the coast.
Cinque Terre DOC: Dry White Wine
The same grapes are also used to make Cinque Terre white—a dry, savory wine—the table wine of the villages. The appellation regulations recognize three subzones named after the coastal areas: Costa de Sera, Costa de Campu, and Costa da Posa, all located in the municipality of Riomaggiore. The DOC designation has been in place since 1973. If you’re looking for a less expensive souvenir than Sciacchetrà, this is the bottle to choose.
Rossese di Dolceacqua, the first DOC from Liguria
The Rossese di Dolceacqua was officially recognized by a decree dated January 28, 1972: it is Liguria’s first DOC. It is a red wine made from at least 95% Rossese grapes, grown in the Nervia Valley and neighboring valleys: Dolceacqua, Apricale, Perinaldo, Pigna, Soldano, Camporosso, and other municipalities as far as Ventimiglia. The “superiore” version cannot be released before November 1 of the year following the harvest. It is said that even Napoleon enjoyed it.
In Dolceacqua, there is a regional wine shop in the historic village, and from the Doria Castle you can see the Rossese vineyards nestled among the olive trees. In the summer, the town also organizes a wine-tasting evening in the town square featuring local wineries.
The Rossese hills are 15–20 minutes by car from the coast at Bordighera: a winery visit pairs well with Dolceacqua and Apricale, see day trips from Bordighera.
Vermentino and Pigato: the Western Ligurian Riviera
The Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC covers the provinces of Imperia and Savona and part of the province of Genoa, extending as far as Arenzano and Cogoleto. It includes five wines: Vermentino and Pigato (at least 95% of the blend), Rossese, Granaccia, and Moscato. There are also five subzones: Riviera dei Fiori, Albenganese, Finalese, Quiliano, and Taggia.
Vermentino and Pigato are the two white wines you should try: Vermentino is generally fresher and more straightforward, while Pigato is fuller-bodied and typical of the Albenga plain, where you’ll also find local produce from the garden. Among the reds from the same DOC is Granaccia, which is less well-known outside the region.
Ormeasco di Pornassio, the mountain red wine
In the upper Arroscia Valley, above Imperia, Ormeasco—the local name for Dolcetto—is grown. The Pornassio or Ormeasco di Pornassio DOC has existed since 2003 and covers municipalities such as Pieve di Teco, Pornassio, Mendatica, and Molini di Triora. In addition to the red wine, there is Sciac-trà, a coral-colored rosé that is dry and fresh—not to be confused with the Sciacchetrà from the Cinque Terre.
Eastern Coast: Luni Hills and the Gulf of Tigullio–Portofino
In the far east, between Sarzana, Lerici, and Castelnuovo Magra, the Colli di Luni DOC (1989) extends into Tuscany, in the province of Massa. Here, Vermentino is the flagship wine; there is also a red made from Sangiovese and a white made from Albarola. In the province of Genoa, the Golfo del Tigullio–Portofino DOC (1997) uses local grape varieties such as Bianchetta Genovese, Scimiscià, and Ciliegiolo, in addition to Vermentino. The smaller DOCs are Colline di Levanto and Val Polcevera, located just beyond Genoa.
| DOC | Region | Main Wines |
|---|---|---|
| Rossese di Dolceacqua (1972) | Val Nervia | Rossese |
| Cinque Terre and Sciacchetrà (1973) | Cinque Terre | white, Sciacchetrà |
| Western Ligurian Riviera (1988) | Imperia, Savona | Vermentino, Pigato, Rossese, Granaccia |
| Colli di Luni (1989) | Sarzana, Lerici, Lunigiana | Vermentino, red |
| The Hills of Levanto (1995) | Levanto | white, Vermentino, red |
| Gulf of Tigullio–Portofino (1997) | Province of Genoa | Bianchetta, Vermentino, Ciliegiolo |
| Val Polcevera (1999) | Genoa’s hinterland | white, red |
| Pornassio (2003) | Upper Arroscia Valley | Ormeasco, Sciac-trà |
What to Pair Them With
- Vermentino and Pigato: pesto, trofie, anchovies, fried fish, focaccia. For traditional dishes, read about what to eat in Genoa.
- Cinque Terre White: Stuffed mussels and fish from the Gulf of La Spezia.
- Rossese and Ormeasco: Ligurian-style rabbit with Taggiasca olives, savory pies, and meats from the inland region.
- Sciacchetrà: Enjoy it after a meal, with dry pastries or aged cheeses, or on its own.
Where to Taste and Buy
Almost all of the wineries in Liguria are small: many offer tastings by reservation only, so be sure to call or email ahead of time. In the villages, you’ll find wine shops and stores selling local wines, and many agritourism properties serve their own wine with dinner: if you’d like to stay among the vineyards, check out the agritourism options in Liguria.
To bring bottles home: On a plane, they must be placed in checked luggage and properly packed. Between European Union countries, for personal use, the EU limit is up to 90 liters of wine; for Switzerland and the United Kingdom, check the customs allowances.
Farmstays near the Cinque Terre Farmstays in the Rossese area
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Sciacchetrà?
The Cinque Terre DOC passito wine: Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino grapes dried after harvest, resulting in a sweet wine with a golden or amber color. It is released no earlier than October 1 of the year following the harvest.
Why is Sciacchetrà so expensive?
Because sun-dried grapes yield very little—at most 32 liters of wine per 100 kg of grapes—and the vineyards on the terraces are almost entirely tended by hand.
What is Liguria’s first DOC?
Rossese di Dolceacqua, recognized on January 28, 1972.
What is the difference between Vermentino and Pigato?
These are two white grape varieties from the Ponente region: Vermentino is generally fresher, while Pigato is fuller-bodied and more structured. Both are part of the Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC.
Are Sciacchetrà and Sciac-trà the same wine?
No. Sciacchetrà is the sweet passito wine of the Cinque Terre; Sciac-trà is the dry rosé wine from the Ormeasco di Pornassio DOC region in western Liguria.