Sarzanello Fortress seen from above

Sarzana

Art town of the Ligurian Lunigiana: Firmafede and Sarzanello fortresses, a painted cross from 1138, antique shops and the beach at Marinella.

Sarzanello Fortress seen from above
Area
Riviera di LevanteProvince of La Spezia
Ideal for
Art, history and antiquescouples and a base between the Cinque Terre and Tuscany
Beaches
Sandy Marinella di Sarzana a few km awayFiumaretta and Bocca di Magra nearby
Best time to go
All yearAugust for antiques, September for the Festival della Mente
By train
Sarzana station near the centre15–30 minutes by regional train from La Spezia
By car
A12 Genoa–Livorno or A15 Parma–La SpeziaSarzana exit
Airport
Pisa (about 70 km, 40 minutes by car)Genoa about 110 km
How long to stay
One day for the town2–3 days with Luni, the gulf and the Cinque Terre

Welcome to Sarzana

Fortresses, antiques and the Lunigiana

Sarzana is the art town of Liguria’s Lunigiana: a flat, walkable old centre in the Magra valley, a few kilometres from the Tuscan border and from the sea. It has two 15th-century fortresses, a cathedral holding a painted cross dated 1138, a main street lined with antique shops and a square where half the town meets in the evening. Coming from Pisa, it is the first town in Liguria.

Its story begins when the Roman city of Luni, a few kilometres away, was abandoned: in the early 13th century the bishop moved his seat here. For three centuries Sarzana changed hands between Pisa, Florence, local lords and Genoa, which held it from 1572. Each power left walls and forts; Lorenzo the Magnificent himself ordered the citadel you see today.

Sarzana has just over 21,000 residents and is lively all year, not only in summer. In August the streets fill with antique stalls, in September the Festival della Mente arrives. Above all, it is a practical base: about 15–30 minutes by train from La Spezia and the Cinque Terre line, close to Lerici and the Gulf of Poets, and usually cheaper than the coast.

Where is Sarzana?

Sarzana is in Liguria (Riviera di Levante, province of La Spezia).

Map: where Sarzana is in LiguriaPIEDMONTLOMBARDYEMILIA-ROMAGNATUSCANYFRANCERIVIERA DI PONENTERIVIERA DI LEVANTELIGURIAN SEASavonaImperiaSanremoLa SpeziaSarzana
Boundaries: ISTAT, Natural Earth · Interactive map →

What to see

What to see in Sarzana

View over the rooftops of Sarzana

The historic centre is flat and compact: you can see it on foot in half a day, Firmafede fortress included. Allow a couple of extra hours for the climb to Sarzanello.

Walls of the Firmafede Fortress in Sarzana

Fortezza Firmafede (the Citadel)

The large square fortress with round towers closes the southern side of the old town. Lorenzo de’ Medici had it built between 1487 and 1492, after Florence defeated Genoa, on the ruins of a 13th-century Pisan stronghold called Firmafede. In the 19th century it became a barracks and then a prison until the 1970s; restoration reopened it in 2003.

Today you visit the parade ground, the towers, the wall walk, the tunnels and the cells; in summer it hosts exhibitions and the national antiques fair. A full ticket costs €5, a combined ticket with Sarzanello €8. In October 2026 it opens Tuesday to Sunday in the morning, plus weekend afternoons: check the Fortezza Firmafede website. History, tickets and tips for seeing both are in our guide to the fortresses of Sarzana.

Sarzanello Fortress seen from above

Fortezza di Sarzanello

On the hill north-east of town, Sarzanello overlooks the whole Magra valley. A castle stood here by the 10th century; in the 1300s it was the residence of the Lucca warlord Castruccio Castracani, and after 1487 the Florentines turned it into the present fortress. It has a triangular plan with three round towers, a dry moat and a large triangular ravelin linked by a bridge.

It is run by the Italian Ministry of Culture and opens on seasonal hours, mostly at weekends in the low season. Tickets cost €5. Drive up, or walk from the centre along the Montata di Sarzanello, a 20-minute-plus climb with views over the plain to the sea.

Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta in Sarzana

Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta

The cathedral, now a co-cathedral, was begun in 1204 on the site of an older parish church, when Sarzana inherited the bishop’s seat from Luni. The white marble façade has a 14th-century lower part and a rose window from 1474.

Inside, in the left-hand chapel, is the main reason to visit: the Cross of Mastro Guglielmo, signed and dated 1138 and considered the oldest dated painted cross in Italy. The right-hand chapel keeps the relic of the Most Precious Blood, linked to the history of Luni. Look out too for the altarpiece of the Purification by Leonardo Riccomanni (1464) and canvases by Domenico Fiasella and Francesco Solimena.

Via Mazzini

The main street follows the line of the ancient Via Aurelia and of the Via Francigena pilgrim route, which crossed the town here. It runs through the centre past the cathedral and the church of Sant’Andrea, lined with historic palazzi, cafés and, above all, antique and restoration workshops. Together with parallel Via Bertoloni it is why collectors know Sarzana.

Piazza Matteotti in Sarzana

Piazza Matteotti

This is the town’s living room, with the town hall and café tables. In the Middle Ages it was called Piazza della Calcandola: here, in 1306, Dante Alighieri received the mandate to negotiate the Peace of Castelnuovo. At aperitivo time it is the busiest spot in Sarzana.

Pieve di Sant'Andrea

The oldest church in town dates from the 10th–11th century and is first recorded in 1128. Its stone façade is almost bare, but the 16th-century portal has pilasters carved as caryatids; the 15th-century statues of Saints Peter, Paul and Andrew that once stood on it are now inside. The Buonaparte family had its tower house near this church before a branch moved to Corsica in the 16th century: Napoleon’s ancestors.

Porta Romana and the walls

The southern gate is topped by a statue of the Madonna and the arms of Genoa. Most of the Genoese walls were pulled down in the 19th century, but from here a walkway reaches the Citadel and shows how the fortified town was enclosed.

Teatro degli Impavidi

The town theatre was built in 1807–1809 inside a suppressed Dominican convent on Piazza Garibaldi. It seats about 940 and reopened in 2018 after a long restoration. If there is a season on, an evening here is worth it.

Genio della Stirpe monument in Sarzana

Genio della Stirpe monument

At the end of Piazza Garibaldi, near the station, Carlo Fontana’s large group in Carrara marble was designed in 1907 and finished in 1914, carved from a single block. Many take it for a Garibaldi memorial; it actually represents the future of the Italian people.

Luni archaeological area

A few kilometres towards Tuscany lie the remains of Luni, a Roman colony founded in 177 BC and the port that shipped Apuan marble. You can visit the amphitheatre, the town area and the National Archaeological Museum. In 2026 a full ticket costs €5, with free entry for under-18s and on the first Sunday of the month; hours change with the season, so check the Luni Museum website.

Sea

Beaches near Sarzana

The old town is inland, but the municipality reaches the sea. A short drive takes you to the mouth of the Magra and the coast below Montemarcello.

Punta Corvo beach between cliffs and sea

Marinella di Sarzana

SandBeach clubsFamily friendly

the town’s only beach, long and sandy, with beach clubs, free stretches and views of the Apuan Alps. Good for families.

Fiumaretta

SandBeach clubs

sandy beach at the mouth of the Magra, already in the municipality of Ameglia, with beach clubs and space for sailing and water sports.

Bocca di Magra

a fishing village on the far bank of the river, with a small beach and seafood restaurants.

Punta Corvo

PebblesAccess on foot

dark pebble beach below Montemarcello, reached only on foot by a steep path and long staircase, or by boat. No facilities: bring water.

Punta Bianca

RocksAccess on foot

white rocks and clear water between Ameglia and Montemarcello, also reached on foot.

Bell tower and fortress in central Sarzana

Where to stay

Where to stay in Sarzana

Stay in the old town if you want to walk everywhere, spend evenings in Piazza Matteotti and use the train for day trips: you will find mostly B&Bs, guest rooms and apartments in historic buildings, a few minutes from the station.

For the beach, look at Marinella di Sarzana or Fiumaretta, with holiday homes, campsites and a few hotels near the sand. Farm stays in the Magra valley and on the hills towards Sarzanello suit travellers with a car. In August, during the antiques market, and on the Festival della Mente weekend, book well ahead.

Getting there

How to get to Sarzana

By car

Sarzana has its own exit on two motorways: the A12 Genoa–Livorno, from Liguria or Tuscany, and the A15 Parma–La Spezia, from Emilia and northern Italy. The centre is a few minutes from the exit.

By train

The station is on the coastal Genoa–La Spezia–Pisa line and the Pontremolese line to Parma, a short walk from the old town. Regional trains from La Spezia Centrale take 15–30 minutes; there are direct trains from Pisa and Versilia. Timetables on Trenitalia.

By bus

ATC Esercizio buses link Sarzana with La Spezia in about 40 minutes and with Marinella, Fiumaretta and Bocca di Magra. Check routes and times on ATC Esercizio.

By plane

The nearest airport is Pisa, about 70 km away: around 40 minutes by car, or by train via Pisa Centrale. Genoa airport is about 110 km away.

Parking

The old town is best explored on foot and not worth driving into. Leave the car in the car parks around the walls, towards the station or the Citadel, and follow the signs on access to the centre. During the August antiques market and the Festival della Mente spaces fill up early: come by train if you can.

By car

A12 Genoa–Livorno or A15 Parma–La Spezia, Sarzana exit

By train

Sarzana station near the centre; 15–30 minutes by regional train from La Spezia

By plane

Pisa (about 70 km, 40 minutes by car); Genoa about 110 km

The guide

Things to do in Sarzana

  • Antiques: browse the shops on Via Mazzini and Via Bertoloni; in August there is the Soffitta nella Strada market.
  • Via Francigena: Sarzana is a stage of the pilgrim route; one section climbs from here towards Sarzanello and the Lunigiana.
  • Montemarcello-Magra park: trails on the headland with views of the gulf on one side and the Apuan Alps on the other.
  • Bozi di Saudino: former quarry ponds near the centre, for a walk, a bike ride or birdwatching.
  • Cycling along the Magra: the plain is flat and easy to ride towards the river mouth and the sea.

What to eat in Sarzana

The food sits between Liguria, Lunigiana and Tuscany: little seafood in town, plenty of country cooking.

  • Spungata: the town’s signature cake, a thin pastry round filled with jam, honey, dried fruit and spices. Traditional at Christmas but sold all year; every family has its own recipe.
  • Testaroli: batter discs cooked in cast pans, cut into diamonds, blanched and dressed with pesto or oil and cheese.
  • Panigacci: small flatbreads baked in terracotta pans, filled with cured meats and cheese.
  • Torta di riso: a savoury rice pie, locally called “torta scema”, and a sweet version.
  • Farinata and focaccia: as everywhere on the eastern Riviera, from bakeries and takeaway shops.

Events in Sarzana

Sarzana square crowded during a festival
  • La Soffitta nella Strada (August): antiques, collectables and vintage market in the streets and squares of the centre, from late afternoon to midnight, free entry. The 62nd edition in 2026 ran from 7 August for over two weeks.
  • National Antiques Fair (August): a high-end dealers’ fair inside the Fortezza Firmafede, 14–23 August in 2026.
  • Festival della Mente (early September): Europe’s first festival devoted to creativity and ideas, with talks in squares and theatres, mostly in Italian. The 23rd edition ran 4–6 September 2026 on the theme of fire. Tickets sell out fast: follow the festival website.
  • Sarzana Senza Tempo (October): historical re-enactment in the centre and the fortress.

Day trips from Sarzana

  • Lerici and Tellaro (about 20 minutes by car): the castle on the gulf and the fishing village on the rocks.
  • La Spezia (15–30 minutes by train): the naval museum, the centre and the harbour where boats leave for the coast.
  • Portovenere: the church of San Pietro on the rocks and the islands, by car or by boat from La Spezia.
  • Cinque Terre: change trains at La Spezia for Riomaggiore, Manarola and Monterosso; Sarzana is a quieter, cheaper base than the villages themselves.
  • Luni and Montemarcello: the Roman ruins and the headland above the Magra estuary.
  • Carrara and Pietrasanta (Tuscany): the Apuan marble quarries and the sculptors’ town in Versilia.

Weather

Weather and best time to visit Sarzana

All year; August for antiques, September for the Festival della Mente

🌙
14°CNow · wind 16 km/h
  1. Sat 10⛅21° 12° 
  2. Sun 11🌦️20° 12°5 mm
  3. Mon 12🌤️21° 15°1 mm
  4. Tue 13☀️20° 12° 
  5. Wed 14☀️19° 11° 
  6. Thu 15☀️22° 12° 

Forecast: MET Norway (Yr), CC BY 4.0 licence. Updated hourly.

Weather across Liguria →

MonthJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
SeaOff seasonOff seasonOff seasonOff seasonPossibleGoodIdealIdealGoodPossibleOff seasonOff season
Sightseeing and hikingPossiblePossibleGoodIdealIdealIdealIdealIdealIdealIdealGoodGood
CrowdsQuietQuietFew peopleFew peopleFew peopleFew peopleBusyVery busyBusyFew peopleQuietFew people
Don't missSoffitta nella Strada antiques marketFestival della MenteSarzana Senza Tempo

IdealGoodPossibleOff season

Crowds:QuietFew peopleBusyVery busy

Gallery

Photos of Sarzana

FAQ

Frequently asked questions about Sarzana

Is Sarzana in Liguria or Tuscany?

Liguria, in the province of La Spezia. It is right on the Tuscan border, though, and historically part of the Lunigiana.

What can you see in Sarzana in one day?

Fortezza Firmafede, the cathedral with the Cross of Mastro Guglielmo, Via Mazzini with Sant’Andrea and Piazza Matteotti. In the afternoon, climb to Fortezza di Sarzanello for the view over the Magra valley.

How much does it cost to visit the fortresses?

A full ticket is €5 for each fortress; at Firmafede you can buy a combined ticket for both at €8. Children under 6 go free.

Does Sarzana have a beach?

Yes, the municipality reaches the coast at the sandy beach of Marinella di Sarzana, a few kilometres from the centre. Fiumaretta and Bocca di Magra are close by.

Is Sarzana a good base for the Cinque Terre?

Yes. Take the train to La Spezia (15–30 minutes) and continue to Riomaggiore and the other villages: allow about an hour in total. Accommodation is usually cheaper than on the coast.

When is the Soffitta nella Strada antiques market?

In August, for about two and a half weeks, in the streets of the old town from late afternoon to midnight. In 2026 it began on 7 August.

When is the Festival della Mente?

In early September, over three days. In 2026 it ran from 4 to 6 September.

Can you visit Sarzana without a car?

Yes. The station is close to the centre, trains from La Spezia take 15–30 minutes and the old town is walkable. ATC buses go to the beaches.

What is the typical cake of Sarzana?

Spungata, a thin pastry filled with jam, honey, dried fruit and spices, linked to Christmas but sold all year.

Where do you park in Sarzana?

In the car parks around the walls, towards the station and the Citadel. The old town is explored on foot.

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