The Pilgrim’s Path and Capo Noli

From Noli to the Capo Noli Semaforo

In Noli’s trail booklet this section is path no. 1. It starts on Via XXV Aprile, above the Hotel Monique, with access from Piazza Monsignor Vivaldo, where there are paid car parks and some free spaces. The first ten minutes are the hardest: an old mule track climbs steeply above the village. Then the path levels out, passes the old quarantine station (lazzaretto, with an information panel) and crosses a stream.

After about a quarter of an hour among terraces you reach the ruins of the chapel of Santa Margherita, also called Santa Giulia: a panel tells its story and the view over the bay is already wide. The path continues on a dirt track: at the first hairpin bend is the turn-off for the Grotta dei Falsari. Three more bends, about half an hour, bring you to the Semaforo, the old signal station on top of the headland.

The climb is about 270 metres. The council gives one hour of walking, not counting stops or the cave.

The Grotta dei Falsari

This is the most photographed spot on the route: a huge opening in the rock, like a window onto the sea, carved by sea erosion. Its name (“forgers’ cave”), and its other name, Grotta dei Briganti, come from the tradition that smugglers and forgers hid there.

From the turn-off on path no. 1 you go down in a few minutes; allow about 100 metres of extra ascent there and back. The edge is a sheer drop: stay well back, especially with children, and do not lean out for a photo. On the steepest parts there are fixed ropes to hold on to.

The direct climb from the coast road

There is also an access from below. It starts just past the Capo Noli tunnel, towards Varigotti, near a large niche in the rock and a rockfall net. About 15 minutes of steep hairpins take you to the cave, then another 10 to path no. 1. The council rates it EE (experienced hikers). You also have to walk to the start along the Aurelia, which has no pavement and heavy traffic: if you are not used to it, climb from Noli.

Torre delle Streghe and the view over Malpasso

From the Semaforo follow about 100 metres of dirt road and turn left: in 10 minutes you reach the Torre delle Streghe, a watchtower on the ridge. A little further on a rocky headland looks down on the Malpasso beach. This section, path no. 3, coincides with the Pilgrim’s Path, also known as Sentiero Liguria (no. 427).

If you don’t want to go down to Varigotti you can make a loop: go back to the junction, follow the gently climbing track that rejoins the dirt road and close the circle at the Semaforo, then return to Noli the same way or by path no. 5, the “Amico Sentiero”, which passes the Romanesque chapel of San Michele.

The descent to Varigotti

From the Torre delle Streghe the path drops towards Varigotti through pines, olive trees and dry-stone walls, waymarked with a red X. On the way down you pass the turn-off for the church of San Lorenzo above the bay and the tiled wall dedicated to Giuseppe Cerisola, the “Australian’s mausoleum”, which is not a tomb. Views of Punta Crena and Saracens’ Bay accompany the last stretch. The descent is steep and stony, which is why many people prefer to walk from Noli to Varigotti; starting from Varigotti means the hardest climb comes first, from Via Strada Vecchia.

Varigotti has its beach and colourful houses; a few minutes away is Saracens’ Bay, a good place for a swim after the walk. To return to Noli take the TPL Linea bus on the Aurelia, which links the two villages in a few minutes: timetables and tickets at TPL Linea, especially worth checking off season because timetables change.

Short on time: path no. 8

The council describes path no. 8 “Acquaviva” as the quickest link between the centre of Noli and Varigotti: it starts at Largo Pastorino, climbs through olive groves and then holm-oak and pine woods to the Cian de Strie track. About 280 metres of ascent, about 1 hour, grade E. It runs inland and lacks the ridge views of the Pilgrim’s Path.

Practical tips

• Water: there are no fountains or cafés signposted along the route. Carry at least a litre each.
• Shoes: hiking or trail shoes. The surface is stone and earth, slippery after rain.
• Sun: the ridge is exposed with little shade. In summer avoid the middle of the day: start early or late afternoon.
• When: walkable all year; spring and autumn are best.
• Children: the Noli–Santa Margherita stretch suits children used to walking; hold their hands at the cave and viewpoints.
• Dogs: no specific official rules found; keep them on a lead and ask the Comune di Noli or Finale Ligure.
• Other trails: from the Semaforo, paths lead along the ridge to Bric dei Monti and to the Manie plateau and Finale Ligure.

For the village, beaches and how to get there see the Noli guide and the page on Noli’s beaches.