The Pilgrim’s Path and Capo Noli

From Noli to the Capo Noli Semaforo

In Noli’s trail booklet this section is path no. 1. It starts on Via XXV Aprile, near Piazza Monsignor Vivaldo, where there are paid car parks and a few free spaces. The first ten minutes are the hardest: an old mule track climbs steeply above the village. Then the path levels out, passes the remains of the old quarantine station (lazzaretto) and crosses a stream.

After about a quarter of an hour among terraces you reach the ruins of the chapel of Santa Margherita, also called Santa Giulia: an information panel tells its story, and the view over the bay of Noli is already wide. The path continues on a dirt track: at the first hairpin bend is the turn-off for the Grotta dei Falsari. Three more bends, about half an hour in total, bring you to the Semaforo, the old signal station on top of the headland.

This section climbs about 270 metres. The council gives one hour of walking, not counting stops or the cave.

The Grotta dei Falsari

This is the most photographed spot on the route: a huge opening in the rock, like a window thrown open onto the sea. It was carved by sea erosion when the water level was much higher. Its name, “forgers’ cave”, and its other name, Grotta dei Briganti, come from the tradition that smugglers used it as a hiding place.

From the turn-off on path no. 1 you go down in a few minutes; allow about 100 metres of extra ascent there and back. Inside the cave the edge is a sheer drop: stay well back, especially with children, and do not lean out for a photo.

The direct climb from the coast road

There is also an approach from below, path no. 2. It starts just beyond the Capo Noli road tunnel, heading towards Varigotti, next to a large niche in the rock and a rockfall net. About 15 minutes of steep zigzags take you to the cave, and another 10 minutes join path no. 1. It is graded EE: slippery ground and exposed sections. If you are not used to this kind of terrain, climb from Noli instead.

Torre delle Streghe and the view of Malpasso

From the Semaforo walk about a hundred metres along the dirt road and turn left: in 10 minutes you reach the Torre delle Streghe, the “witches’ tower”, an old stone tower on the ridge. Just beyond is a rocky viewpoint looking down on Malpasso beach and the coast towards Varigotti. This short section, path no. 3, is part of the Pilgrim’s Path.

If you don’t want to go down to Varigotti, you can make a loop: head back to the dirt road, close the circuit at the Semaforo and descend to Noli the same way, or via the “Amico Sentiero” (no. 5), which passes the little Romanesque church of San Michele.

The descent to Varigotti

From the Torre delle Streghe the Pilgrim’s Path drops towards Varigotti through pines, olive trees and dry-stone walls, waymarked with a red X. Above the village you pass close to the church of San Lorenzo, with views of Punta Crena and the Baia dei Saraceni. This descent is steep and stony: walkers starting from Varigotti tackle it uphill at the start, which is why many prefer to walk from Noli.

In Varigotti the beach and the colourful seafront houses are waiting. To get back to Noli take a TPL Linea bus on the Aurelia: check times on TPL Linea, especially outside summer.

Practical tips

• Water: there are no fountains or cafés along the way. Carry at least a litre per person.
• Footwear: hiking or trail shoes. The ground is stone and earth, slippery after rain; flip-flops are a bad idea.
• Sun: the ridge is exposed with little shade. In summer start early in the morning or in the late afternoon.
• Season: walkable all year; spring and autumn are the best months.
• Children: the Noli – Santa Margherita – cave section suits children used to walking, held by the hand near the edge.
• More trails: from the Semaforo, paths also run along the ridge to Bric dei Monti and towards the Manie plateau and Finale Ligure.

For the village, the beaches and how to get there, see our guide to Noli.