Mandilli de sæa (“silk handkerchiefs” in Genoese) are squares of fresh pasta rolled out so thin that they become almost transparent, boiled for a few minutes, and tossed with Genoese pesto. If you’re looking for “mandilli de sea” or “mandilli pasta,” this is it: not short pasta or a stuffed pasta, but lasagna sheets cut into pieces.
The question everyone asks is whether the dough contains eggs. Sources disagree: some use only flour and water, others use one egg, and still others use two eggs with a little white wine. Here is a version with fewer eggs, along with the variations explained below.
- Origin: Genoa
- Total time: about 1 hour and 15 minutes, including 30 minutes for the dough to rest
- Servings: 4
- Difficulty: medium—the hardest part is rolling out the dough thinly
- Key ingredients: flour, a tiny bit of egg, Genoese pesto
- When: year-round; one source links it to the Epiphany tradition
Ingredients
Serves 4. The pesto isn’t included in the pasta recipe; you’ll find the recipe on the page for Genoese pesto.
For the pasta
- 300 g of 00 flour
- 1 egg
- about 110 ml of water
- 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil (one in the dough, one in the cooking water)
- 1 pinch of fine salt (for the dough) and coarse salt for the water
For the dressing
- Genoese-style pesto, as needed
- 2 tablespoons of cooking liquid
- Grated Parmesan, to taste
Optional, for the version with vegetables: 2 potatoes and 50 g of green beans, plus toasted pine nuts for garnish.
How to Make It
- Make a well in the flour and add a pinch of salt. Place the egg, a tablespoon of oil, and half the water in the center.
- Knead the dough, adding water a little at a time, until it forms a smooth, firm ball. If it’s too dry, add water by the teaspoon; if it’s sticky, add a little flour.
- Cover the dough and let it rest for 30 minutes.
- Roll out the dough with a rolling pin or a pasta machine, in increasingly thin layers, until it becomes almost transparent: you should be able to see your fingers through it.
- Cut the pastry into squares (a convenient size is about 10 cm per side) and lay them out on a dish towel without overlapping them.
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil with the other tablespoon of oil. Put the pesto in a large bowl and mix it with 2 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water.
- Cook a few mandilli at a time for 2–3 minutes, stirring gently. Remove them with a slotted spoon without draining them in a colander.
- Toss them in the bowl with the pesto, toss gently to coat, and serve immediately, with a little Parmesan if you like.
Tips and Common Mistakes
Roll the dough out really thin. That’s the only thing that matters: if it’s too thick, you’ll end up with soggy lasagna, not handkerchiefs. Better to set the machine a few notches higher.
Do not use the strainer. The wet pasta sheets stick together: lift them out with a slotted spoon and transfer them immediately to the pesto.
Cook a few pieces at a time in plenty of water to prevent them from sticking together, and don’t overcook them: a few minutes is enough.
Pesto isn’t cooked. Stir it into the cooking water in the bowl, off the heat. If you don’t have a mortar and are using a blender, keep the pesto smooth and cold, as we explain on the pesto page.
Serve them as soon as they’re ready. They’re delicate and prepared fresh to order—which is why you won’t find this dish on every menu.
Please note: This recipe contains gluten and eggs, and the pesto contains pine nuts and cheese.
Variants
Egg-free. Some versions use only flour and water: the dough comes out whiter. A Ligurian source on home cooking notes that fresh Ligurian pasta usually contains few or no eggs.
With more eggs. Other recipes start with 200 g of flour and 2 eggs (with a little water or white wine): the dough is more elastic and yellower. One rule of thumb is about one egg for every 100 g of flour.
With potatoes and green beans. As with trofie and trenette, pesto can be served with boiled potatoes and green beans, which are cooked first and then added to the mandilli.
Other condiments. Pesto is the traditional sauce; one recipe also calls for butter and sage, walnut sauce, or simply oil with Parmesan cheese. For the walnut sauce, see the pansoti with walnut sauce.
If you’re short on time, some people resort to using dry lasagna noodles: it’s not quite the same, but it holds the sauce well. For other pasta dishes with pesto, see testaroli and corzetti.
History and Origins
The name combines *mandilli*, “handkerchiefs,” and *sæa*, “silk.” Some sources trace “mandil” back to Arabic, where it means “handkerchief”; this is the most widely accepted etymology, but we have not found it in any academic source. The idea that this pasta originated from Genoa’s trade with the East is a popular hypothesis, presented as probable but not documented.
What sources state with the greatest certainty is the connection to Genoa, with pesto as the sauce and lasagna noodles. According to the strictest Genoese tradition, “mandilli” are the true “lasagne al pesto”: boiled noodles served with raw pesto. Baked lasagna with pesto and béchamel sauce (lasagna alla Portofino) is another variation.
Where to Try Them in Liguria
Mandilli are a traditional Genoese dish and are rarely found on menus: they require fresh pasta dough made to order. We don’t list any restaurants because we haven’t verified any through official sources: ask at trattorias that make their own fresh pasta.
To eat well in Genoa, start by exploring what to eat in Genoa and the surrounding area; in the nearby Golfo Paradiso, you’ll find Recco and Camogli, home to Recco’s famous focaccia. For an overview, see Ligurian cuisine.
What to Drink
For a dish featuring herbs and oil like this one, a fresh Ligurian white wine—such as Vermentino or Pigato—is a sensible choice. You can find them in the guide to Ligurian wines.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does “mandilli de sæa” mean?
“Silk handkerchiefs” in the Genoese dialect: these squares of puff pastry are so thin they resemble fabric.
Are mandilli made with eggs?
It depends on the recipe: there are versions made with just flour and water, with one egg, or with two eggs. On this page, we use one egg for every 300 g of flour.
How thin do they need to be?
Almost transparent: you should be able to see your fingers through the pasta sheet. It’s much thinner than regular lasagna.
How long do they take to cook?
Just a few minutes—usually 2–3—a few pieces at a time in plenty of salted water. If they float and are tender, they’re ready.
How is this different from lasagna with pesto?
Mandilli are boiled pasta sheets served raw with pesto. Lasagna baked in layers with pesto and béchamel sauce is another recipe.
Can I use store-bought pesto?
You can, but the result depends on the quality. Homemade pesto made in a mortar is still the best choice: the recipe is on the Genoese pesto page.
Can they be prepared in advance?
They are delicate and should be served immediately after cooking. The only thing you can prepare in advance is the pesto; it’s best to make the dough and roll it out just before serving, allowing it to rest for 30 minutes.