Santa Margherita to Portofino on foot, by bus or by boat

On foot: the coastal walk

This is the most rewarding option and needs no fitness training: it is almost all flat with a few short ups and downs, first beside the provincial road and then on a separate footpath. Comfortable shoes, water and a hat are enough. In summer start early: after 10am the sun is strong and traffic on the road is constant.

From the harbour to the Cervara

Start from Santa Margherita harbour and follow the seafront south, past the 16th-century castle and the town beaches. After the last built-up stretch the road narrows and runs right above the sea, between villas and gardens. After about half an hour you pass below the Cervara Abbey, where King Francis I of France was held prisoner in 1525. It can only be visited on a booked guided tour, so most walkers carry on.

From the Cervara to Paraggi

The next stretch is the most scenic: coves, rocks, cliff-top villas and the tip of Portofino getting closer. This road was destroyed by the storm surge of late October 2018, which cut Portofino off for months; it was rebuilt and reopened on 6 April 2019. After another half hour you reach Paraggi, the small sandy bay that belongs to Santa Margherita: the right place for a break or a swim, though the beach is mostly run by beach clubs.

From Paraggi to Portofino: the Passeggiata dei Baci

The last stretch, just under two kilometres, is known as the Passeggiata dei Baci, the “Walk of Kisses”: it leaves the road and runs below it through the vegetation, with views over the coves and villas. It passes close to the little Niasca beach and arrives right in the village. It is the quietest and shadiest part of the route. With children or little time you can walk just this section: take the bus to Paraggi and walk from there.

The full footpath actually starts in Rapallo: 8.5 km, about two and a half hours, completed in 2017. There are bus stops all along the route, so you can stop whenever you like. After heavy storms some sections may be closed for repairs: if the weather has been bad, ask in town before setting off.

By bus: line 782

AMT bus 782 starts at Santa Margherita railway station, stops along the seafront and at Paraggi and reaches Portofino in about 20 minutes. In high season it runs every 15–20 minutes until the evening, so you will not be stranded after dinner, whatever some old guides say. Buy your ticket before boarding or on the app; current fares and timetables at amt.genova.it. On August afternoons return buses from Portofino can be full: if you are not in a hurry, wait for the next one or go back by boat.

By boat

Boats run by the Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio leave Santa Margherita harbour all year, with more sailings from spring to autumn. The main line calls at Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portofino and San Fruttuoso: with a ticket to San Fruttuoso you can stop off in Portofino and continue on a later boat. It is the easiest way to see the coast from the sea and to reach the abbey of San Fruttuoso, accessible only on foot or by sea. Sailings are cancelled in rough seas. Timetables and fares at traghettiportofino.it.

How to combine them

• Classic day: walk to Portofino in the morning, explore the village, bus back.
• With San Fruttuoso: boat from Santa Margherita to San Fruttuoso, hike to Portofino, bus back. The trail is covered in our Portofino guide.
• With children: bus to Paraggi, Passeggiata dei Baci into the village, boat back.
• Off season: walk both ways, with lunch in Portofino or Paraggi.

For what to see once you arrive (the Piazzetta, Castello Brown, the lighthouse) read our Portofino guide. To continue around the Tigullio, boats and trains from Santa Margherita also reach Rapallo and Camogli.