Walking from Portofino to San Fruttuoso: 4.3 km, about 2 hours, stages, Passo del Bacio closed in 2026 and the boat back with times and fares.
The Portofino Park headland seen from above
Distance
4.3 km one wayfigure from the Park authority
Time
2 hours to 2 hours 15 minutes one waystops not included
Elevation
about 250 m up and 250 m down
Difficulty
E, for average hikerssteps, steep and stony sections
Waymark
two red dots
Start
western end of Piazza della Libertà in Portofinoon via del Fondaco
Return
on foot or by boat12 € one way, 20 € return in the 2026 fares of the Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio
Walking from Portofino to San Fruttuoso takes about 2 hours 15 minutes, over 4.3 km with 250 metres of climbing. It is the easiest and best-trodden way to the abbey, and in 2026 it is open. The two most famous trails on the Camogli side, the Passo del Bacio and the Via dei Tubi, are not: they are closed by ordinance. Below you will find the stages, official timings, how to come back by boat (with the October 2026 timetable) and what to check before you set off. Data checked on 24 October 2026.
By Italian Riviera editorial team·Updated on ·6 min read
The route, stage by stage
From Piazza della Libertà to the Cappelletta
Start at the western end of Piazza della Libertà, the car park square, and climb the steep via del Fondaco. Where the asphalt ends the flight of steps begins, marked with two red dots: it climbs the valley of the Rio del Fondaco between terraces still planted with olive trees. Turn round for an unusual view of the village, tucked into the mouth of the valley. At the top are the two houses of the Cappelletta (186 m).
Two branches to the left lead to Punta del Giasso and Cala degli Inglesi: the Park marks them as suited to more experienced hikers. For San Fruttuoso keep right, to the Costa della Pineta (224 m).
Prato and the mid-slope stretch
At the Costa della Pineta the path turns left and goes round the small valley of the Rio Vessinaro. A short climb leads to the houses of Prato (245 m), the highest point of the route: according to the Park this is where the vineyards of the “Giancu de Portufin” sung by Fabrizio De André grow. Then you walk along the mid-slope in a dry, rocky landscape of thick scrub and conglomerate rock, with fine sea views. You cross the shady valley of the Rio Ruffinale and climb with a few bends to Base O.
Base O and the descent to San Fruttuoso
Base O (228 m) is reached 1 hour 20 to 1 hour 30 after leaving Portofino. The name is written with the letter O (from “ou”, gold, in the local dialect), not with a zero, although “Base Zero” is widely used. The ruins of a Second World War hut remain. To the south a short detour equipped with chains, which needs some care, leads to a viewpoint right above the sea.
From here you descend steeply through pine woods, with many hairpins, to the bay: 40-45 minutes. This is the trickiest section when the ground is wet.
San Fruttuoso: what you will find
The bay has the Abbey of San Fruttuoso, run by the FAI, the Doria tower, a pebble beach and a few places to eat. In 2026 the abbey costs 10 € (5 € for ages 6 to 18); in October it is open 10:00 to 15:45, last entry 45 minutes earlier, and from November to February it is closed on non-holiday Mondays. Hours change with the seasons: check the FAI website. On the seabed lies the Christ of the Abyss, which you cannot see from the shore.
How to get back
By boat from San Fruttuoso
Line 1 of the Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio links San Fruttuoso with Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure and Rapallo. From the 2026 fares: Portofino–San Fruttuoso 12 € one way, 20 € return; Santa Margherita–San Fruttuoso 16 € and 24 €. Tickets are bought at the ticket office. The 2026 timetable published for October to 1 November:
Portofino → San Fruttuoso: departures at 10:30, 11:30, 12:30, 13:30, 14:30 and 15:30
San Fruttuoso → Portofino: departures at 11:30, 12:30, 13:30, 14:30, 15:30 and 16:30 (the crossing takes about half an hour)
May to September: the last departure from San Fruttuoso is at 17:30, at 18:30 on Saturdays in July and September and daily in August
The operator warns that boats leave with at least 20 people per boarding point, that on quiet days some runs may be cancelled and that rough sea can cancel them. The 2026 PDF runs to 1 November: for later dates ask at the ticket office or call +39 0185 284670. A ticket to San Fruttuoso bought in Rapallo or Santa Margherita also lets you stop in Portofino.
To Camogli
Golfo Paradiso boats link San Fruttuoso with Camogli (11 € one way, 17 € return for adults in 2026) on a seasonal timetable. In November and December there are few runs and none on Mondays. From Camogli station take the train to Santa Margherita or Genoa.
On foot
Going back by the same path takes a similar time to the outward trip (the Park does not publish a return time): the climb from San Fruttuoso to Base O is the hardest part of the day. Clocks go back to winter time on 25 October and the woods get dark early: if you start late, take the boat.
Closed trails and alternatives
With ordinances 89 and 91 of 2024 the Municipality of Camogli banned walking on the Via dei Tubi (between the Batterie and the Caselle) and on the Passo del Bacio (between the Batterie and Costa del Termine). The Park states that the bans also apply in 2026. In January 2026 50,000 € were granted to make them safe, but in April the local press still reported them closed and no reopening has been announced: do not follow older guides that still suggest them.
Other routes to San Fruttuoso described by the Park (not covered by the Camogli bans):
Route
Distance
Elevation
Time (one way)
From Portofino (this page)
4.3 km
+250 / −250 m
2 h – 2 h 15
From Ruta
4.6 km
+210 / −460 m
2 h – 2 h 30
From Portofino Vetta via Base O
4.8 km
+100 / −460 m
1 h 40 – 2 h 10
From Santa Margherita via Pietre Strette
6 km
+460 / −480 m
not checked
The routes are described on the Park authority website, which also publishes ordinances and notices.
Practical tips
Shoes: hiking shoes or trainers with a good sole; the Park asks for suitable footwear on E-grade routes. No flip-flops.
Water: bring it with you, at least a litre per person.
When: spring and autumn are best. In summer start early.
With children: fine if they are used to walking; the first climb is long and the final descent is steep.
Weather: after rain stones and steps are slippery; also check the Portofino forecast.
FAQ
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to walk from Portofino to San Fruttuoso?
The Park gives 2 to 2 hours 15 minutes one way, for 4.3 km, without stops. You reach Base O after 1 hour 20 to 1 hour 30.
Is the trail difficult?
It is graded E, for average hikers: steps, ups and downs, and a steep, stony descent. You need suitable shoes and a bit of fitness, not special equipment.
Are the Passo del Bacio and the Via dei Tubi open?
No. They are banned by the Municipality of Camogli with ordinances that also apply in 2026, and the trail from Portofino does not go that way. Check the Park website for news.
Can I come back by boat, and until when?
Yes. In October the last departure from San Fruttuoso to Portofino is at 16:30; from May to September at 17:30, with a 18:30 run on some summer days. Rough sea can cancel runs.
How much is the boat from Portofino to San Fruttuoso?
In the 2026 fares of the Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio, 12 € one way and 20 € return; confirm at the ticket office. Abbey entry is extra, 10 €.
Is it better to start in Portofino or in Camogli?
In Portofino, because it is the open, official route. From Camogli the best-known path goes via the Passo del Bacio, which is banned: from there take the boat or an open route described by the Park.
Can I bring a dog?
The abbey admits small dogs in a carrier or in arms and certified guide dogs on a lead; we found no official rule for the trails, so ask the Park authority (+39 0185 289479).
Where to stay
Where to stay in Portofino
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