Christmas in Genoa: lights, nativity scenes and markets

The tree lighting in piazza De Ferrari

The unmissable date is 8 December, the feast of the Immaculate Conception. The council has planned an event in piazza De Ferrari with music, choirs and Christmas dances, and the lighting of the tree. In 2025 the programme began at 4.30 pm with music, choirs and sweets, and at 6 pm the tree lights and the cascades of light on the historic palaces were switched on. Come early: the square fills up and the real show is the moment of the lighting.

The Confeugo, Genoa's fire ritual

The Confeugo is Genoa’s oldest Christmas tradition: it dates back to the Republic, with the first records in the fourteenth century. Originally the Abate del Popolo gave the Doge a large laurel log, which was burned with wine and sugared almonds; people collected the embers as good-luck charms. Today it is a historic procession led by the head of the A Compagna association and the mayor, with a laurel-branch bonfire. In 2025 it took place on Saturday 20 December: the procession left piazza Caricamento at 4 pm, reached piazza De Ferrari around 4.40 pm and the celebration continued in the Salone del Maggior Consiglio at Palazzo Ducale. The 2026 date has not yet been announced. Chiavari, Rapallo, Sestri Levante and Santa Margherita Ligure also hold a Confeugo, on different days in December.

Lights and the Old Port

The lights cover the whole city: in 2025 the Porto Antico had about 8 kilometres of them, up to 6 January, and at Palazzo Tursi the atrium was lit from 6 December. The Porto Antico is also where the shows are: in 2025 a Christmas Laser Show ran every evening from 20 December, and Ponte Parodi hosted the Winter Park funfair from 6 December to 18 January. If you visit the Aquarium at this time, book your ticket and arrive early; you will find it in the Porto Antico.

Genoa's nativity scenes

Genoa has many nativity scenes, and the best way to discover them is the Passaporto dei Presepi, promoted by the city and the Archdiocese of Genoa: you collect a stamp at each stop. The 2025 edition, the third, ran from 8 December to 11 January, with a closing event on 8 February at Palazzo Ducale. The route includes places such as the Museo Diocesano, the Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the basilica of San Siro; two nativity scenes are permanent, at the Madonnetta and San Luca. The artistic nativity scene at Palazzo Rosso, in the Musei di Strada Nuova, was opened on 8 December in 2025 and could be seen from via Garibaldi, the street of the Palazzi dei Rolli. Look up 2026 dates and venues on visitgenoa.it.

Markets and Santa's House

In 2025 the markets were spread around the centre: the Fiera di Natale in piazza della Vittoria, the Mercatino di San Nicola in piazza Piccapietra, the Mercatale in piazza De Ferrari, wooden huts in piazza Matteotti and the book fair in the Galleria Mazzini. The programme did not give exact dates; check the 2026 ones. At Palazzo Tursi in 2025 there was Santa’s House, open from 17 to 24 December. On 6 January the Befana descended from a fire-brigade ladder in piazza Matteotti at 3 pm, closing the 2025 programme.

At Christmas Genoa eats pandolce, the festive cake with raisins, candied fruit and pine nuts, in the “alto” (leavened) or “basso” version. See what to eat in Genoa for the difference and where to try it.

Where to stay in Genoa at Christmas

Staying in the centre is convenient for piazza De Ferrari, the Old Port and the nativity scenes. The period between 8 December and New Year is among the busiest: book ahead, especially for the Immaculate Conception. Areas and tips are in where to stay in Genoa. If you prefer a seaside base with a train to Genoa, Camogli and Recco are about half an hour from Genova Brignole.

Getting around

In December the centre is crowded. The simplest way is to arrive by train, at Genova Brignole or Principe, and move on foot or by metro. Since 1 November 2025 the metro and the vertical lifts are no longer free: check fares on the AMT website. The historic centre is a limited-traffic zone: if you come by car, leave it outside the centre.