Gulf of Poets

The Gulf of Poets is the Gulf of La Spezia, in eastern Liguria, just a stone’s throw from Tuscany. At its western tip lies Portovenere, along with the islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto; on the eastern shore are Lerici, San Terenzo, Fiascherino, and Tellaro; at the far end of the gulf lies the city of La Spezia, with the train station from which trains depart for the Cinque Terre. It’s an area best explored by bus and boat, featuring seaside villages, sandy beaches, and coves nestled among the rocks.

• Where: Gulf of La Spezia, between Portovenere and Lerici, at the eastern tip of Liguria
• Don’t miss: San Pietro in Portovenere, Palmaria, the castle in Lerici, and Tellaro perched on the cliffs
• Beaches: sandy beaches in San Terenzo and Lerici; pebble and rocky beaches in Portovenere, Fiascherino, and on Palmaria
• How to get there: ATC buses and seasonal ferries from La Spezia; there are no trains to Portovenere and Lerici
• Where to stay: Lerici for the beach, La Spezia for a more affordable option and to visit the Cinque Terre
• UNESCO: Portovenere and the islands since 1997, along with the Cinque Terre

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Why Is It Called the Gulf of Poets?

The name dates back to the 20th century. It was first used by the playwright Sem Benelli in 1910, in his eulogy for the writer Paolo Mantegazza, who lived in San Terenzo. Benelli was thinking of the poets who had lived in or traveled through the gulf, especially the 19th-century English poets.

Percy and Mary Shelley lived at Villa Magni, on the San Terenzo waterfront, in the spring and summer of 1822: from there, the poet set sail for Livorno and never returned. Lord Byron frequented the gulf during those years; the legend of his swim across the gulf from Portovenere to San Terenzo is unproven, but it gave its name to the cave beneath the walls of Portovenere and to a swimming race. A century later, D. H. Lawrence lived in Fiascherino, and Mario Soldati spent his final years in Tellaro.

Portovenere and the Islands

Portovenere marks the western end of the gulf. You enter through the Porta del Borgo and walk along the narrow alleyway to the Church of San Pietro, perched on the cliff, whose Gothic section—with its black-and-white bands—was built by the Genoese in the 13th century. Above the town stands the Doria Castle, and below it are the colorful houses of Calata Doria. Together with the islands and the Cinque Terre, it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997.

Across a narrow channel lies Palmaria, the largest island in Liguria. Boats operated by local boatmen depart from the Portovenere pier year-round (with fewer trips in winter and only when sea conditions are favorable) and make the crossing in just a few minutes. On the island, there is a roughly 6-km loop trail, a few pebble beaches, and abandoned Portoro marble quarries: all details can be found on the pageabout Palmaria Island. Il Tino is a military zone and can only be visited during the feast of San Venerio, around September 13, by reservation; Il Tinetto is a rocky outcrop with the ruins of ancient monasteries.

Lerici and San Terenzo

Lerici marks the eastern end of the gulf. The Castle of San Giorgio, begun by the Pisans in the 13th century and later fortified by Genoa, overlooks the harbor and Piazza Garibaldi; from its terrace, you can see the entire gulf all the way to Portovenere. A flat seaside walk of about three kilometers leads to San Terenzo, a fishing village with its own castle, sandy beach, and Villa Magni degli Shelley (private, but visible from the outside).

Lerici has once again been awarded the Blue Flag for 2026 and is the most convenient base for a beach vacation in the gulf: beaches right in town, boats from the harbor, and buses to La Spezia. In the summer, traffic in the town center is restricted: before arriving by car, read the tips on parking in Lerici.

Tellaro and Fiascherino

From Lerici, a single narrow road continues south. First you come to Fiascherino, with two small beaches at the bottom of long stairways, where the writer D. H. Lawrence lived between 1913 and 1914. At the end of the road lies Tellaro, one of Italy’s most beautiful villages: tall, narrow houses perched on the cliffs, the pink church of San Giorgio overlooking the sea, and the legend of the octopus that rang the bells to warn of the arrival of pirates. The village is pedestrian-only: you can park at the entrance or take the bus from Lerici, which takes about a quarter of an hour. The trails of Montemarcello Park start from the village.

La Spezia

La Spezia is a real city that grew up around the 19th-century military arsenal. It’s worth spending a day here: the Amedeo Lia Museum, featuring paintings from the 13th to the 18th centuries; San Giorgio Castle, with its Lunigiana stele statues; the Naval Technical Museum; Via del Prione; and the Morin Promenade along the sea. On the first Sunday in August, the Palio del Golfo takes place here—a rowing race between the villages of the gulf.

For visitors to the area, it’s primarily a transportation hub: trains from the central station reach Riomaggiore in about ten minutes, and boats depart from the Passeggiata Morin. For information on the villages in the park, read the guide to the Cinque Terre.

Beaches of the Gulf of Poets

The Lerici side is known for its family-friendly beaches: sandy beaches at San Terenzo, Venere Azzurra (shallow waters, suitable for children), and Lido di Lerici; crystal-clear waters at Baia Blu. Toward Tellaro, the beaches give way to pebble coves nestled among the rocks, such as Fiascherino and Eco del Mare, with stairways to descend and climb. Find all the details in the guide to Lerici’s beaches.

In Portovenere, people swim from the rocks or at the small pebble beach of Olivo; on Palmaria, there are Terrizzo, across from the town, and Pozzale, toward Tino. Inside the gulf, off the coast of La Spezia, the water isn’t suitable for swimming: everyone goes to the two headlands for swimming.

How to Get There and How to Get Around

• By train: The station is La Spezia Centrale, on the Genoa–Pisa line. Portovenere, Lerici, and Tellaro do not have rail service.
• By bus: ATC Esercizio, line 11/P to Portovenere (about 30 minutes; departs from downtown, not from the train station) and lines L and S to Lerici (about 30 minutes); from Lerici, take the bus to Tellaro.
• By boat: Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti connects La Spezia, Lerici, Portovenere, and Palmaria, offering trips to the Cinque Terre and a tour of the three islands. The service is seasonal, running from spring to fall: schedules and prices change every year, so check the Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti website for details.
• By car: Take the A12 or A15, exit at La Spezia toward Portovenere (then about 12 km along the coastal road); take the A12 and exit at Sarzana toward Lerici. Paid parking and restricted-traffic zones in the summer.
• By plane: The nearest airport is Pisa, about 70–95 km away depending on the destination; next is Genoa.

Where to Stay in the Gulf of Poets

Lerici is the best choice for a beach vacation: beaches, the harbor, and the bus are all within walking distance. San Terenzo is perfect for families with children, while Tellaro and Fiascherino are ideal for those seeking peace and quiet—but you’ll need a car or the bus to get there. Portovenere has few hotels and high prices in the summer: book early. La Spezia offers more choices and lower prices, and it’s the most convenient base if you want to visit the Cinque Terre by train.

• Accommodations in Lerici
• Accommodations in Portovenere
• Accommodations in La Spezia

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is it called the Gulf of Poets?

The name was first used by Sem Benelli in 1910, in reference to the poets who had lived in the gulf: Percy and Mary Shelley in San Terenzo in 1822, Lord Byron, and later D. H. Lawrence in Fiascherino.

Which countries are located in the Gulf of Poets?

Portovenere, with the islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto at its western tip; La Spezia at the far end of the gulf; Lerici, with San Terenzo, Fiascherino, and Tellaro on the eastern shore.

Is it possible to tour the gulf without a car?

Yes. Take the train to La Spezia, then take the ATC buses to Portovenere and Lerici, and, during the summer, the ferries that connect La Spezia, Lerici, Portovenere, and Palmaria.

Where are the sandy beaches?

On the Lerici side: San Terenzo, Venere Azzurra, and Lido di Lerici have sandy beaches and shallow waters. In Portovenere, on Palmaria, and toward Tellaro, pebbles and rocks predominate.

Can you visit Tino Island?

Only for the San Venerio festival, around September 13; reservations are required and space is limited. The rest of the year, it is a military zone; Palmaria, on the other hand, is always open to visitors.

The Gulf of Poets and the Cinque Terre on the same trip?

Yes, they’re very close by. From La Spezia, the train reaches Riomaggiore in about ten minutes, and during the tourist season, boats from Lerici and Portovenere go to the villages of the Cinque Terre.