The medieval village of Bordighera on the hill of the Capo: history since 1470, the Maddalena church, the Spianata del Capo, ZTL and parking.
Bordighera Alta is the medieval village of Bordighera, gathered within its walls on the hill of the Capo. From the sea it looks like a single block of pastel-coloured houses; inside it is a maze of carruggi (narrow lanes), arches and small squares where people dine outdoors in summer and stroll in silence in winter. It is the historic heart of the town and the place where it all began, in 1470.
The name “Burdigheta” already appears in a papal bull of Pope Boniface VIII from 1296 and probably comes from “bordiga”, the reed barrier used for fishing. For centuries the area depended on Ventimiglia, and its inhabitants lived higher up, at Borghetto San Nicolò.
On 2 September 1470, gathered in the church of Borghetto, the heads of the families decided to refound the village on the headland of the Capo, closer to the sea and the fields: according to tradition they were thirty-two families of fishermen and farmers. The new village was fortified from the start, with walls and gates to defend it against pirate raids, and was strengthened in the 16th century. In 1683 Bordighera gained independence from Ventimiglia together with the other villages in the area.
When the English arrived in the 19th century, the new town grew further down, along via Romana and the sea. The old village remained almost intact, which is why today it still has its 15th-century layout and atmosphere.
You can walk round the village in an hour, but it is worth taking your time: the charm lies in the details, from the stone doorways to the glimpses of the sea between the houses.
The village has an irregular pentagonal layout, enclosed by its 15th-century walls. You enter through the old gates: on the Capo side, towards Sant’Ampelio, and through the gates that open towards the new town. In many places the houses themselves act as a defensive wall, with windows only high up.
The parish church looks onto piazza del Popolo and was consecrated in 1617. Inside, the marble high altar and the statue of the Magdalene in glory are the work of the 18th-century Genoese sculptor Domenico Parodi. The bell tower rises above the rooftops of the village and can be seen from all over the Capo.
Piazza del Popolo is the living room of Bordighera Alta: the church, the colourful façades and the restaurant tables. From here the carruggi lead to the smaller squares and to viewpoints over the sea, from which on clear days you can see the coast as far as Menton and Monaco.
Leaving the village towards the sea you reach the Spianata del Capo, a viewpoint among pines and palms. Here you will find the Marabutto, an old powder magazine with a dome shaped like a holy man’s tomb, and three old cannons nicknamed in dialect Butafoegu, Tiralogni and Cagastrasse. Further down, on the rocks, is the little Romanesque church of Sant’Ampelio.
In the lanes you come across craft shops, small galleries and workshops. In the evening the village lights up with the restaurants in the squares: it is the most atmospheric place in Bordighera for dinner in summer.
The route is short but has steps and slopes: wear comfortable shoes. With a pushchair it is best to stick to the main streets.
Since 3 January 2022 Bordighera Alta has been a limited traffic zone (ZTL), in force 24 hours a day all year round. The camera-controlled entry point is at the junction of via Circonvallazione and via al Capo: only bicycles, taxis, emergency vehicles and vehicles for people with disabilities can enter freely; residents and businesses have a permit from the town council. Anyone who enters without a permit receives the fine at home.
Around the village, on the Spianata del Capo, in piazza del Capo and in piazzale Ottoluoghi, there is blue-line parking, paid all year round until 11 pm; in 2026 the town council extended the residents’ areas, so in summer there are few spaces for visitors. It is better to park in the centre and walk up in ten minutes, or take urban bus line 11/2, which serves Bordighera Alta. All the car parks in town are listed in our guide to parking in Bordighera.
The village is home to some of the most highly regarded restaurants in town, with tables in the squares and Ligurian cooking from both sea and land: booking is advisable in summer and at weekends. For addresses see our guide to restaurants in Bordighera.
Sleeping in the old village means waking up to the quiet of the carruggi, in apartments and B&Bs set in historic houses. Before booking, ask how to manage the car and luggage, since the village is always a ZTL.
Bordighera Alta is in Bordighera (Riviera di Ponente, Riviera dei Fiori).
FAQ
No, the village has been a ZTL 24 hours a day all year round since 2022. Only vehicles with a permit, bicycles, taxis and emergency vehicles can enter.
In the blue-line spaces on the Spianata del Capo and in piazza del Capo, paid all year round until 11 pm, but with few spaces for visitors. In summer it is easier to leave the car in the centre and walk up in about ten minutes.
About an hour for the village and the Spianata del Capo; two hours if you also walk down to Sant’Ampelio and return along the seafront.
The village was refounded on the hill of the Capo on 2 September 1470 by families from Borghetto San Nicolò.
On foot from the station in about fifteen minutes, or on Riviera Trasporti urban line 11/2, which serves Bordighera Alta on weekdays.
Where to stay
All places to stay in Bordighera on Booking: compare prices and availability.
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