The beach village of the Cinque Terre: Fegina and the Giant, the old town, the Capuchin monastery, Soviore, trains, the Card and getting there.
Welcome to Monterosso
Monterosso al Mare is the westernmost of the Cinque Terre and the first village you reach coming from Genoa. It is also the biggest: about 1,300 residents, two distinct halves split by a headland, and the widest beaches on this stretch of coast. On one side is Fegina, the newer area with the train station and the seafront; on the other is the old town, with its narrow lanes, a striped black-and-white church and colourful houses packed into the valley.
It is the most practical base in the Cinque Terre if you want to mix beach time with sightseeing. The beaches have proper facilities, trains to the other villages run all day, and trails climb to Punta Mesco, Levanto and the Soviore sanctuary. The village is recorded as early as 1056 and was sacked by the pirate Dragut in 1545. The poet Eugenio Montale spent his boyhood summers here, and these rocks and lemon terraces run through his poetry.
Since 1997 Monterosso has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage site of Portovenere, the Cinque Terre and the islands. There is a flip side: from May to September it gets very busy, the old town is closed to cars and parking is scarce. Plan around the train and pick your dates carefully.
Monterosso is in Liguria (Cinque Terre, province of La Spezia).
What to see
You can see the village on foot in half a day. Fegina and the old town are linked by the seafront promenade, which runs through a short tunnel under the Torre Aurora headland: ten minutes from end to end. Add a few hours, and good shoes, if you want to climb to the Capuchin monastery or to Soviore.
The heart of Monterosso is the narrow valley behind the old-town beach: parallel alleys, arches, small squares and tall houses in warm colours. Go early in the morning or in the evening, after the day-trippers have left, to see it at its best.
Right in front of the station is the longest beach in the Cinque Terre, a mix of sand and fine shingle. Most of it is taken up by beach clubs, with free stretches near the station and towards the Giant. In summer the free spots fill up fast: get there by 9am. Every beach, free or paid, is covered in our guide to the beaches of Monterosso.
At the far end of Fegina, towards Levanto, a huge figure of Neptune juts out of the rock. It was built in 1910 in reinforced concrete and iron by architect Francesco Levacher and sculptor Arrigo Minerbi, to support the terrace of a villa. It is 14 metres tall and weighs about 170 tonnes. Damage in the Second World War and a storm surge in 1966 took away its arms, trident, shell and one leg; what remains is the torso, now the symbol of Monterosso.
The parish church on the old-town square was built between 1282 and 1307 in Ligurian Gothic style. The façade has the classic bands of white marble and dark stone and a large marble rose window attributed to Matteo and Pietro da Campiglio. The bell tower started life as a medieval watchtower and was raised in the 15th century. St John the Baptist is also the village’s patron saint, celebrated on 24 June.
Opposite the parish church stands the oratory of the “Black” confraternity, known as Mortis et Orationis. Brotherhoods like this one emerged in the Counter-Reformation and looked after the dead, widows and orphans. A skull and crossbones above the door sums up its mission, and the skull-and-bone decoration inside is a reminder that life is short. Nearby is the oratory of the “White” confraternity, Santa Croce, with a 19th-century organ. Opening times vary: if the door is open, step inside.
On the San Cristoforo hill between Fegina and the old town, the monastery and church of San Francesco were built between 1619 and 1622. The friars were expelled under Napoleon; in 1894 the complex was bought back and returned to the Capuchins. Inside the church are a Crucifixion attributed to Van Dyck and a St Jerome attributed to Luca Cambiaso. Walk up from the old town on a stepped lane: the view from the top takes in the whole bay.
The Torre Aurora was built by the Genoese in the 16th century to watch for pirate ships and is one of three surviving defensive towers. It sits on the headland between Fegina and the old town, and you pass right by it on the promenade. Higher up, on the Capuchin hill, are sections of the castle walls, three round towers and a square one: medieval in origin, later strengthened by Genoa.
At 418 metres above the village, in the woods, stands what is considered the oldest Marian sanctuary in Liguria. Tradition says a statue of the Virgin, hidden during the Lombard invasions, was found here in the 8th century; the first document mentioning the sanctuary dates from 1225. Inside is a 15th-century wooden Pietà. You can get there by car, by bus or on foot on trail 509, an old mule track lined with Stations of the Cross.
The headland closing the bay to the west is Monterosso’s best viewpoint: the whole Cinque Terre coastline unfolds as far as Portovenere. At the top are the ruins of the Sant’Antonio del Mesco hermitage, recorded as early as 1380, and an abandoned naval signal station. From Monterosso it is about an hour and a quarter uphill, with 300 metres of ascent.
Along Fegina you will spot the villa where Eugenio Montale’s family spent their summers, which the poet called “the yellowish pagoda”. It is a private home and not open to visitors, but much of the imagery of his first collection, “Ossi di seppia”, comes from this landscape of dry-stone walls, rocks, olives and lemons.
Sea
Monterosso has more beach than any other Cinque Terre village and is the only one with a real choice of beach clubs. From west to east: the free beaches of Portiglione and the Giant; the long Fegina beach with clubs and two free sections in front of the station; the flat rocks under the Torre Aurora; then the old-town beach and, past a large rock towards Vernazza, the small free beach of Tragagià.
The sandy stretches shelve gently, which makes them good for families. For access, seabed and peak-season tips, read the full guide to Monterosso’s beaches.
Where to stay
Monterosso has the widest choice of accommodation in the Cinque Terre: hotels, B&Bs, guesthouses and apartments. Start by choosing the area.
From June to September prices are high and the best rooms go months ahead: book early. In spring and October there is more choice and the village is far more pleasant.
Recommended places to stay
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Nestled in the lush hills of Monterosso, Hotel Villa Steno offers a blend of genuine hospitality…
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Located in the vibrant heart of Monterosso al Mare, Hotel Pasquale offers a seaside paradise with…
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Perched on the edge of a cliff overlooking the fascinating ocean, Hotel Porto Roca boasts enviable…
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Hotel Souvenir offers a peaceful retreat accentuated by the poetic beauty of its lush secret garden.…
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Hotel Amici is located in Monterosso, nestled between blue and green with its colorful houses it…
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Combining the charm of the Orient with the distinct ambiance of Monterosso, La Casa di Zuecca…
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Enter a world of timeless elegance at Hotel Margherita. Impeccably appointed rooms, attentive staff, and beautiful…
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Roca Du Ma Pasu offers air-conditioned rooms with free WiFi. The property has a terrace from…
Check availability →All places to stay in Monterosso on Booking: compare prices and availability.
All places to stay on Booking.comGetting there
Leave the A12 motorway at Carrodano-Levanto and follow signs for Levanto. From there the road climbs to the Colla di Gritta pass and drops down to Monterosso: this is the easiest route. From La Spezia you can take the Cinque Terre coastal road, which is far more winding and slow. Either way, you only need the car to arrive: in the village you get around on foot and by train.
Monterosso station is in Fegina, on the Genoa–La Spezia line, about ten minutes’ walk from the old town. Regional trains between Levanto and La Spezia are frequent, especially in season: Vernazza is a few minutes away, La Spezia under half an hour. From Genoa allow a good hour and a half. For tickets and the Cinque Terre fare, see the Cinque Terre Card section above.
From spring to autumn, sea permitting, boats link Monterosso with Levanto, Vernazza, Manarola, Riomaggiore, Portovenere and La Spezia; Corniglia has no landing. In summer there are also excursions from Genoa, Camogli and the Portofino coast. Timetables and fares on the Consorzio Marittimo Turistico 5 Terre Golfo dei Poeti website.
The nearest airport is Genoa, about 95 km away; Pisa is about 120 km. From either one the train is the simplest way to continue.
The old town is a restricted traffic zone and cannot be reached by car. There are two main car parks: Fegina, on the seafront, with 270 spaces, and Loreto, on two levels above the old town, with 160. Both charge fees, are expensive in high season and fill up by mid-morning. For a day trip it is simpler to leave the car in Levanto or La Spezia and take the train.
Practical guide
Monterosso parking: Fegina and Loreto car parks, 2026 prices and tipsFegina and Loreto car parks with official 2026 rates, the road in, the car-free centre, when they fill up, motorhomes and the…By car
A12, Carrodano-Levanto exit, then Levanto and Colla di Gritta; old town closed to traffic
By train
Monterosso station in Fegina (Genoa–La Spezia line), 10 minutes' walk from the old town
By sea
Boats from La Spezia, Portovenere and Levanto
By plane
Genoa (about 95 km) or Pisa (about 120 km), then train
The guide
The easiest way to hop between villages is the regional train between Levanto and La Spezia, often called the Cinque Terre Express. From 14 March to 1 November 2026 a special fare applies: a single ticket costs €5, €8 or €10 depending on the day’s band (low, medium or high demand), and €2.50–5 for children aged 4 to 11. Validate it before boarding; it is good for one journey within 75 minutes. After 7.30pm the lowest fare always applies. Source: Trenitalia, Cinque Terre by train.
The national park’s Cinque Terre Card comes in two versions. The Trekking Card covers the paid trails (the Verde Azzurro coastal path and the Via dell’Amore, which must be booked), park buses in the villages and the station toilets. The Train Card adds unlimited second-class regional trains between Levanto and La Spezia. Card prices also vary by band, and you see the price for your date when you buy at card.parconazionale5terre.it. As a rule of thumb, the Train Card pays off if you take three or four train rides and walk a paid trail on the same day.
This is the best-known section of the old Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail): about 3.5 km through olive groves and vineyards above the sea, an hour and a half to two hours, with steep steps especially on the climb out of Monterosso.
Important: since 10 September 2026 the park has closed the Corniglia–Vernazza–Monterosso section for geological checks after late-summer storms, with no reopening date given. Check the notices on the Cinque Terre National Park website before you set out. When open, the trail requires a Cinque Terre Card. If it is closed, the train gets you to Vernazza in a few minutes.
A classic traverse: about 6 km, two and three-quarter hours and 350 metres of ascent, with a tough initial climb out of Levanto and a long, scenic descent to Fegina past the ruins of Sant’Antonio del Mesco. The train takes you back in minutes.
Trail 509 starts at the end of Via Roma in the old town and climbs about 2.5 km through olive groves and woods to the sanctuary: allow a good hour and a half up and an hour down. You can also ride the bus up and walk down.
In May the village holds its Lemon Festival (Sagra del Limone), usually on the third weekend of the month (16–17 May in 2026): stalls in the lanes, lemon products and contests for the biggest lemon and the best shop window. In summer there are also anchovy festivals: check dates on the town’s website.
Weather
May–June and September; July and August very crowded
Forecast: MET Norway (Yr), CC BY 4.0 licence. Updated hourly.
Monterosso al Mare weather: 10-day forecast and climate →
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sea | Off season | Off season | Off season | Off season | Possible | Good | Ideal | Ideal | Good | Possible | Off season | Off season |
| Sightseeing and hiking | Possible | Possible | Good | Ideal | Ideal | Ideal | Good | Good | Ideal | Ideal | Possible | Possible |
| Crowds | Quiet | Quiet | Few people | Busy | Busy | Very busy | Very busy | Very busy | Busy | Few people | Quiet | Quiet |
| Don't miss | Lemon Festival | St John the Baptist | Madonna di Soviore | |||||||||
IdealGoodPossibleOff season
Crowds:QuietFew peopleBusyVery busy
Gallery
FAQ
The old town with San Giovanni Battista and the Oratorio dei Neri, the climb to the Capuchin monastery, a walk to the Giant statue and a few hours on Fegina beach.
Yes: two sections in front of Fegina station, the Giant and Portiglione beaches towards Levanto, a small beach in the old town and Tragagià towards Vernazza. The rest is taken up by beach clubs.
Since 10 September 2026 the Corniglia–Vernazza–Monterosso section has been closed for geological checks. Check the Cinque Terre National Park website for updates before you go.
From 14 March to 1 November a single ticket between Levanto and La Spezia costs €5, €8 or €10 depending on the day’s band. After 7.30pm the lowest fare applies.
No. You don’t need it for the village or the beaches. The card is required for paid trails and pays off if you take several train rides in a day.
Yes, from Levanto via the Colla di Gritta, but the old town is closed to traffic and the Fegina and Loreto car parks are small and pricey in high season. The train is almost always the better option.
Fegina for convenience, with the beach and station close by; the old town for atmosphere and restaurants on your doorstep, if you don’t mind stairs and a slightly longer walk from the station.
In May, usually on the third weekend of the month. In 2026 it was held on 16 and 17 May.
May, June and September: the sea is warm enough, the trails are pleasant and the crowds are smaller than in July and August. October is perfect for hiking, less so for swimming.
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